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[cars honking]
[ebbing orchestral chords]
[Joackim] They've always told us to chase a dream,
chase a career, to compete.
[distorted recorded voices]
[waves crashing]
[camera shutter snaps]
That never made any sense to me.
Consumerism, materialism, capitalism.
We're so obsessed with ourselves,
it's a tragedy.
In a way I never fit the game,
and that's maybe how I ended up here.
I can't live in the rat race.
I kind of need nature. True nature.
A friend once told me,
you must have a sense of direction.
Random wandering around
won't help you to move forward.
Instead, it will create anxiety and make you unhappy.
That's when I heard for the first time
about the true meaning of the Northern Star.
That little light up in the sky
that had guided us in the past.
That's when I decided to leave all this madness behind
and head up north.
[wave crashing]
♪
The forecast says
we have a good sized swell at the beach.
But, you never know until you get out there.
[gulls calling]
[waves crashing]
♪
[waves crashing]
["The Rainbow" by Talk Talk plays]
♪ Sound the victim's song
♪ The trial is gone
♪ The trial goes on
♪ Sound the victim's song
The first day leads to the first lesson:
adversity is life's best teacher.
Going out there today was so different and unique...
because in reality, I was forced inward.
♪
[thunder rumbling]
[cicadas singing]
As I see the birds flying with the wind,
a strange storm, cold feeling from within.
Since I started to live in this van,
I left all my possession behind
and I said to myself,
"I will not own such manmade things,
but I will own my life."
It's only the second day,
and there is one thing that I cannot escape from.
The memories and moments.
These are things that, as more as you collect them,
the more you become them.
No matter where you are, you are those experiences.
The North wind approaches
and I think about my twin brother.
I never really felt alone,
because I always had him next to me.
But being here and now, just by myself
made me think...
that loneliness does not come from being alone,
but from being unable to express myself,
and the way I feel to others.
I never felt as alone as I felt in that city.
[birds chirping]
[radio announcer] Showers and thunderstorms today
with a spot of southwesterly winds [indistinct]...
[engine running smoothly]
[radio announcer] ... continue into tomorrow morning.
The overnight low, near 38.
Rain tapering off tomorrow afternoon,
followed by a partial clearing.
[Joackim] I had no choice
other than going east to the mountains,
surrounded by old trees and live beings.
Strangely void of people.
It seems it's just another winter vibe.
[gravel crackling under tires]
[engine stops]
I really like this idea of collecting frames
through pictures and photography.
I see this as just another projection
of how our selective mind works.
With moments and memories
dancing in the back of the brain.
Just keeping the essence and the essential
for the music to play
and letting go what is unnecessary.
[rain pattering]
One of the good things about days like this,
cold, wet and empty, is that it brings you silence.
I believe we're not aware of how silence
is a rare thing these days.
[crickets chirping]
[creek rushing]
It's a privilege to be able to slow down,
look inwards and quiet the mind.
[water babbling]
That seems to be the luxury for our generation.
The luxury of silence in nature.
[fire crackling]
[creek rushing]
[inhaling]
[exhaling]
[door hinges creaking]
[brush scraping]
[water trickling]
[water rushing]
With this river in constant flow,
there's a force, a current of energy,
drawing away all the glitter to lighten my load,
recharging my spirit.
[water splashing]
Getting stuck here the last few days,
I felt as if I had a rebirth with nature,
a symbiotic connection
where the environment can change you with every breath.
It just made me realize I was so disconnected.
[car engine rumbling softly]
Early mornings, my mind deviates in inner thoughts.
And just the feeling to get close to the ocean
gets me excited already.
You drive and ride, ride and drive...
and it's a long drive until we get to the place
where poets and writers used to escape.
♪
[car engine rumbling]
♪
[keys jangling]
[car engine stops]
[door clicking]
On the road, you quickly learn
to appreciate the small things.
That was meaningless before
is now so symbolic.
Like my mate time.
It allows me to be present,
contemplate the circumstances,
and observe time in slow motion.
[waves crashing]
["Le Soleil Dans Le Monde" by Domenique Dumont plays]
[French lyrics]
♪
[French lyrics continue]
♪
[French lyrics continue]
[door clicks shut]
[tide whooshes smoothly]
[waves crashing]
It's a rare gift to find a waterfall on the beach.
Some people talk about its magical healing powers.
It not only cleanses the spirit,
it washes out the demons.
[water drops falling]
It feels as if I'm washing my spirit clean
as I keep heading north.
["Thoughts Of Tomorrow" by Tommy Guerrero plays]
♪
[slow music playing]
One day, I had a dream
about orange waves in another Earth.
I was surfing in gold orange boards
and black birds all around me.
That was a long, long, unforgettable ride.
♪
[waves crashing]
♪
[highway din]
The thing about crossing this bridge
is that you quickly realize
that waters are much colder here.
Bigger waves and sharks are everywhere.
Not every surfer has what it takes to surf up north.
I bet we will see fewer people in more isolated places
as I keep driving to a place
where a friend once mentioned to me.
[nature din]
He said I should search for a little farm
up in the mountain, close to the ocean,
then park the van and sleep there.
The next day, early morning,
I should drive a couple miles to a dead end,
in a dirty road,
and then walk a couple more miles in the grass
until I reached the river mouth.
He believes this place has sacred energy.
"It's not about only the waves," in his words,
"it's about pure joy and reconciliation."
♪
[wind whooshing gently]
♪
[soft rumbling]
[birds chirping]
[straw slurping]
[cicadas singing]
[car engine rumbling]
♪
[Hindi lyrics]
♪
[music fading]
[waves crashing]
So much of this experience is about going out.
It's all about expansion.
Sometimes, I like to look at old frames.
They give me a nostalgic feeling of being alive.
This natural process of capturing light excites me.
Using a film camera gives you the ability
to see this in the physical form.
This is so mysterious for me, even these days.
["Orange Peel" by Sopwith Camel plays]
♪ Baby smell Like orange peel ♪
♪ Cinnamon
♪ Vanilla
♪
Some days, if you can't find waves in the ocean,
you might find some on the road.
I'm keeping the flow.
♪
[skateboard whooshing]
♪
[radio announcer] I was a pre-med student
at Johns Hopkins [indistinct].
Now, I do know a little something about anatomy...
and I say it is scientifically impossible
for the human body to stand up to the training we receive.
An absolute impossibility.
The muscle and tendons and bone structure
was not designed to withstand that battery.
Don't ask me how it happened that we did stand it.
I don't know.
It has no scientific explanation.
Here, listen to this.
Out of one of them old[indistinct].
[gravel crackling under tires]
["Song Of A Sinner" by Top Drawer plays]
[indistinct]
♪
♪ How can you keep me?
♪ Knowing I've made you sadly ♪
♪ And yet
♪ I ask to be forgiven
♪ Knowing the life That I've been living ♪
♪ And yet
♪ I know it's too late
♪ 'Cause On your judgment day ♪
♪ You're going to Close the gate ♪
♪ On me
♪ And now
♪ I'll be left here On my own ♪
♪ To face hell
♪ All alone
♪
[car horn honking]
[sighs]
[Joackim] I was talking with a lady
in the restaurant the other day.
When I told her about surfing this place,
she thought I was crazy.
She said, "This is a baby shark breeding room.
You are in their nursery, dude."
She tried to tell me not to go...
but that was exactly why I wanted to check it out.
♪
[grass rustling]
[wind howling]
I have a strange feeling about this place.
It's not about the size of the waves.
The water feels alive here.
There's a powerful presence.
Something unsettling about this spot.
It's all restless and dense.
Heavy nature, ruthless and loud.
But, I'm motivated to flip the coin,
to discover what's on the other side.
[waves crashing]
♪
And here I was paddling out there
and just after I passed over the wave, I saw him.
[waves crashing]
I'm pretty sure he was circling me, I could feel it.
So, I left.
There is nothing I fear more than to be alone
with those beasts out there.
[waves whooshing]
♪
But for those who overcome fear...
the reward is always freedom.
["In Every Dream Home A Heartache" by Roxy Music]
♪ In every dream home A heartache ♪
♪ And every step I take
♪ Takes me further From heaven ♪
♪ Is there a heaven?
♪ I'd like to think so
♪ You float in my new pool
♪ Deluxe and delightful
♪ Inflatable doll
♪ My role is to serve you
♪ Dispose of both, darling
♪ Can't throw you away now
♪ Immortal and life sized
♪ My breath is inside you
♪ I blew up your body
♪ But you blew my mind
♪
♪ Oh, those heartaches
♪ Dream home heartaches
♪ Oh, those heartaches
♪ Dream home heartaches
[waves crashing]
[van whooshing]
[clanking]
[gravel crackling under tires]
I think we forget about who we are
and somehow, we disconnect so much with our true selves.
I can't think about how many of my friends in the city
know what it really takes to put food on their table.
The whole process is so far distant,
that people don't have any connection
with what they eat.
[muffled bubbling]
I believe that food is a source and a consciousness.
The whole process
of how you grow, catch, and kill
has totally different outcomes.
[bubbling]
[harpoon whirring]
[waves crashing]
I've been gathering and hunting
my own food for a while.
It's a natural thing for me,
and now feels like the perfect time to go back.
[eagle calling]
[nature din]
[waves crashing]
[fire crackling]
The respect of that relationship with food
might be the core of our well-being.
[crumpling]
[knife grinding]
[sizzling]
[fire crackling]
[van whooshing]
[engine roars]
I woke up in this misty morning,
thinking the swell should be fading down already.
But I saw a couple guys driving on this road
and I decided to give it a try
for the last session before I keep going north,
chasing the next swell.
[gentle acoustic instrumental]
♪
[creaking]
I've always liked old cars.
It's like they have a personality.
This old lady is a brave character,
never had any issues with this one,
and I've been living in this beauty
since I moved to California.
But there is one thing you need to make sure of,
so you can keep moving forward.
You can not forget to check if she needs water or oil.
Other than that, she will take you anywhere you need.
[hood slams shut]
[footsteps]
[door clicks open]
[door slams shut]
[rocks crackling under tires]
It's so unbelievable
that in the north of California,
you can still see farms
and the ocean in the same view.
It has a different feeling.
When I see this today.
It's like seeing the past from a rear-view mirror.
[engine rumbling]
[engine roars]
[light rustling]
[van whooshing]
Wildlife and gigantic trees welcome me to this region,
the unforgotten Northern wood vale.
The exciting thing about Northern California
is that animals are bigger here,
you can feel it.
Trees are bigger, you can see it.
But, the air is thinner.
The sound of nature is loud...
and the sound of a man is silent, or smaller.
And really, all you have are some dirt roads to guide you.
[engine roaring]
[drapes scraping]
I had to sleep in the woods after a long drive
and I saw a trail in the night
that can take you to a big, rocky cliff.
As soon as I got there,
I could hear waves breaking from afar.
I couldn't believe it.
This was a point break,
with waves breaking directly in the cliffs.
[waves crashing]
There's something sacred here.
I can't say why,
but there are things you can't explain.
You must feel it.
And that's it.
It comes from the gut,
and resonates everywhere.
A friend a long time ago mentioned lost temples
on the Northern coast of California...
but I never really believed in him, until I got here.
[water rushing]
♪
The beauty was never only in the waves,
but instead, in what I was surrounded by.
The sacred is here and now.
♪
I wish I had my brother here.
This was such a trip.
Going out alone was scary and frightening sometimes,
but also a relief.
Especially, when it's just you and nature.
That felt like a journey itself.
♪
I started disconnected,
lost and hopeless...
and now nature, waves and solitude
work as my real guidance.
♪
[waves crashing]
♪
We're all searching for meaning in life,
and sometimes, the answer is not out there.
It's within.
[waves crashing]
Purpose was never a big thing,
but instead, it was the small and invisible things
that I was never aware of.
[water splashing]
[waves crashing]
[birds chirping]
I learned one thing about going up north:
the journey never ends.
North is just an illusion we create
to find meaning in life.
There is no north, only moving forward
and keep moving forward.
That's the thing,
the north was never a place,
but a new way of seeing things.
[engine revs]
[birds chirping]
♪
[music ends]