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The '80s mark a series of spectacular achievements
for Polish Himalayan mountaineers.
After the first winter ascents of the Himalayan eight-thousanders,
they are ready for Karakoram, the most inaccessible range in the world.
In winter '88, in extreme conditions,
"The Ice Warriors" want to reach the second-highest summit on Earth.
Among them is Maciej Berbeka.
I don't like going back to those events. I don't want to.
I had lost almost everything during that expedition.
Actually, I never fully returned from there.
Broad Peak is a part of me.
And I am a part of it.
KARAKORAM MARCH 1988
Maciej, where are you? Over.
Maciej, respond. Over.
A WEEK EARLIER
Things weren't going well for us on K2 that winter.
It's a three-kilometer vertical climb from the glacier base camp,
and after two months, we hadn't even reached the halfway point.
That's when Alek Lwow suggested climbing the neighboring Broad Peak.
Just the two of us, without support from the team.
It was a risky and crazy idea.
I didn't want to do it, but I realized that I couldn't escape it.
BALTORO GLACIER BASE CAMP
Three camps. Maybe even four.
We can do it in two days.
It's close and not as fucking windy as on that fucking K2.
I know how much you want this.
I can go alone.
Andrzej will never let you.
That's exactly why I fucking need you!
Don't tell him about it yet.
Andrzej…
We're already at Camp One, but there's no sign of the tents.
All the supplies were blown away. We can go look for them. Over.
Krzysiu, don't look for them. Do you copy?
There was a blizzard at the base too. It must be rebuilt.
We have to rebuild the base. We're waiting for you. Come down.
Over and out.
What fucking Broad Peak?
I didn't expect that from you.
-What? -Fucking hell, Alek. I asked you.
-You couldn't have chosen a worse time. -There'd never be a good time.
What did he tell you?
The same as always.
That we're fucking nuts.
Day 68 of the K2 expedition.
Wielicki and Cichy set up a makeshift camp above Black Pyramid.
It's the highest altitude we have reached so far.
Despite the expiring permit and unpredictable weather,
the team is determined.
We will make at least one more attempt to attack the summit.
We are optimistic. End of message.
You know we won't reach K2. Let us go to Broad Peak.
You lose nothing.
I could lose men.
I know when to let go.
Now you know. It's different up there.
Andrzej, you know me.
What's your plan?
Light Alpine style, three camps. The same route as Krzysiek did in summer.
We haven't even set up Camp Two. The boys are on the brink.
They'll understand.
This decision kills the expedition.
We didn't come here to sit in tents.
We came here to climb, right?
We came here to reach K2.
The entire world is watching us. We could reach two summits.
The first winter ascents in Karakoram. What's wrong with that?
That it'll be Berbeka and Lwow's individual success.
Not the whole team's.
Exactly. Why you?
Why not Krzysiek, who was already there in the summer?
-Because it's my idea. -Fucking great.
You're crazy if you think that K2 will improve.
Crazy? What the fuck are you on about?
I hate this moment.
It seems like everything is all right…
I can see that you're already there.
Have you even considered what I was going through?
What the kids were going through?
Niusiek…
Don't "Niusiek" me.
Why do that?
We're going for K2.
We have a better chance together.
-Two people less won't make a difference. -It won't help.
Krzysiek, I just want to try.
I'm not racing anyone.
Good luck, then.
See you in four days.
If everything goes well.
There's no other option.
Ambassador, Maciej Berbeka and Alek Lwow have just left the base camp below K2
towards Broad Peak.
They've decided to attack the summit in light Alpine style.
We're waiting for the official permit to reach the summit.
We hope it can be sorted out quickly.
Over and out.
The weather is good.
It won't drop below -40°C at night.
Stable morning, -30°C, no wind.
If the weather holds, you should reach 7,000 tomorrow.
Over and out.
Maciej!
Maciej?
Are you okay?
I understand, Maciej. I do!
Unfortunately, the weather is not on your side.
If the blizzard doesn't stop, turn back. Do you copy?
Turn back if it doesn't stop. It's too risky.
We'll see tomorrow.
Tomorrow morning.
Over and out.
I'm worried, Maciej.
I guess I understand and accept it, but…
What do you want me to say?
It's okay.
That's right.
SUMMIT PUSH
We're coming for you.
Fuck!
We're fucked.
It won't work.
We'll go around.
How the fuck are we going to go around?
We're close. It'd be a shame to go back.
Here's good. We can go this way.
Too late.
The shitshow is coming.
We won't make it.
We will make it.
Fuck.
We should go back.
I'd go down.
Tell Zawada.
I'll go a bit further.
We should turn back.
It's getting really dangerous. Over.
And Maciej?
What does Maciej think?
Let me talk to him. Over.
Maciej wants to go up.
Over.
How are you feeling? You have to assess the situation.
It's another four, five hours to reach the summit.
You only have one radio. Don't split up.
Work together!
2 P.M.
4 P.M.
5 P.M.
Maciej, this is base, over.
DEATH ZONE
Maciej, this is base, over. Respond.
5:30 P.M.
Maciej, please respond, over.
Respond, for God's sake.
5:55 P.M.
Base, come in!
Finally! This is base, over.
Maciej, at last! Tell us where you are. Over.
Andrzej, there's nothing above me.
I'm on the summit.
I am on the summit!
That's wonderful, Maciej. Fantastic!
You have to be careful during the descent.
Find the tent.
Great success for Polish Himalayan mountaineering.
The winter expedition of the Polish Mountaineering Association
can be proud of a spectacular achievement.
Maciej Berbeka from Zakopane has completed the first winter ascent of Broad Peak.
This makes him the first person in history
to cross 8,000 meters in winter, in Karakoram,
the highest, most dangerous, and difficult to reach
mountain range in the world.
8:30 P.M.
11 P.M.
Maciej, where are you? Over.
I've dug a pit below a col.
I can't see where to go next.
Maciej, hopefully it will clear up soon.
Stay in the pit. It might be better in the morning.
You'll find the way. Take care.
8:30 A.M.
Maciej, this is base. Come in.
Maciej, over.
I can't see anything.
Andrzej, I'm still in the same spot.
Maciej, you've been at 8,000 meters for 16 hours now. You must descend. Over.
I don't know which way to go. I'm lost.
Maciej, you've been there for too long!
You won't survive another night. You must descend.
1 P.M.
Maciej, I hope you're descending.
You can't stay there that long!
I can't feel my legs.
Maciej, both Mireks and Krzysiek Wielicki are going up.
I repeat, they are going up.
Going where?
Up Broad Peak to meet you both.
If the weather permits, they should be with you in two days.
They'll be there in two days.
Maciej, you have to descend! You won't survive another night.
It's a miracle you're alive.
Maciej, you must descend.
You won't survive another night at 8,000 meters.
Maciej…
Maciej, can you hear me?
Come.
Come here.
I'm scared.
Don't do this to me.
9 P.M.
11 P.M.
Alek!
Maciej!
How's it going? How is he?
Not bad, considering how many days he has spent at 8,000 meters.
Only his toes are frostbitten.
You have to quickly descend first thing in the morning.
Andrzej, he's not strong enough to walk.
Krzysiek and both Mireks should reach you tomorrow,
but you have to start descending.
You've been there for too long.
9:30 A.M.
I can't fucking carry you!
Come on!
Maciej!
2 P.M.
That's it! It's over now!
Good job, Krzysiek! Get them down as fast as you can!
They're frostbitten and dehydrated. It's a miracle they're alive.
2 P.M. NEXT DAY
Maciej!
You will fly to the hospital. Everything's taken care of.
Don't worry about anything.
-Thanks. -Don't mention it.
Everything will be okay!
Dad!
Lego!
Maciej, may we? Just a few words.
Boys, come here.
Krzyś, come.
How did you decide to ascend this particular mountain?
We set out to…
What?
Nothing.
Tell me!
Niusiek, I love you.
Hello?
Hi, Maciej. It's Andrzej.
Hi.
How are you feeling? Do you need anything?
No, nothing. Everything's fine.
That's great.
Actually, I wanted to talk because…
Listen, I don't know how to tell you this, but…
Are you setting something up?
Yeah, exactly. But I wasn't sure how you're feeling.
We're planning Nanga Parbat in a few months.
I didn't know if you're in shape and up for it after the last--
Come on, sure. Awesome!
This is the base at the bottom of K2.
And that's what most of our days look like.
Shitshow.
That's what we call bad weather in the mountains.
I've heard that you slept in a pit for two days.
Yeah, I did.
But there's not much to tell about that.
One moment.
Never mind.
-Thank you! -Thanks.
Melt the chocolate, add to milk and butter.
-Mix the flour with baking powder-- -Wait.
-Mix the flour. -Yes.
How much flour?
-I don't know. -No drawings?
No.
Hello.
-Are your parents in? -My dad is.
Thank you.
Let me.
This is better.
TATRA CLIMBER
ALEKSANDER LWOW TO WIN MEANS… TO SURVIVE
Maciej?
Who knew?
-Come in. -Who knew?
-Everyone. -Everyone?
I thought you were gonna die.
You called in from the summit.
-I had no doubts. -None?
-Krzysiek said it was too soon. -Krzysiek? Where is he now?
Where's Alek?
Where is that bunch of goddamn cowards?
Three months?
For three fucking months
nobody thought to tell Berbeka that he didn't reach the summit?
What was that whole farce for?
What for?
What did you want to gain? Success? Money for the next expedition?
Was it about the money?
Had I told you, you'd have carried on.
Andrzej?
You didn't give me the choice!
Ewa would be arranging your funeral right now!
Don't drag my family into this!
Maciej…
Maciej!
Sensational news from the mountaineering world.
Maciej Berbeka, who attempted the first winter ascent on Broad Peak,
did not actually reach the summit.
According to Aleksander Lwow, who climbed with him,
Berbeka reached Rocky Summit, the so-called foresummit.
He was just several meters away.
This means the mountain remains unconquered.
In fact, Maciej Berbeka reached
the so-called foresummit of Broad Peak (8030 m. above sea level) – Rocky Summit.
It's located just 17 meters below the main summit,
but separated by an hour-long climb through an open ridge.
That hour could've cost Maciej his life.
Perhaps it's for the best that he didn't realize his mistake.
Krzysiu, go to sleep.
Vanilla or chocolate?
Janusz said you didn't reach the summit.
That's not true, right?
How was it?
I'm not going on any goddamn national expeditions with them ever again.
I promise.
JUNE 2012
Three, two, one!
Watch it!
Hi, Maciej, it's Krzysiek.
I don't know when you're off to climb in the Andes,
but I hope you're still in the country.
Please call me back.
Everything okay?
Okay.
I'm just tired.
Let's go to sleep.
Now I have to choose some, you know.
The most important thing is to unite them later, at the exhibition.
Hi.
I couldn't reach you.
And since I was driving past, I thought I'd pop in.
For your collection.
Hi.
We've got everything.
Equipment, a strong, young team.
I need someone experienced.
Besides…
you deserve this expedition.
I deserve peace and quiet.
You deserve to conquer that goddamn mountain.
Come on, it's late.
Maciej…
We have to finish what we've started.
Krzysiu, I don't have to do anything.
Come, I'm sure Ewa prepared a room for you.
No, I won't be staying.
Give her my best.
Bye.
What did he offer you?
Broad Peak.
I said no.
For the beauty and good you bestow on us.
For what comes straight from your heart.
And for the artistry expressed in your work.
Darling, thank you for being you.
I'm going there.
I know.
You must promise me something.
You won't ascend the summit if you don't feel well.
Niusiek…
Promise me.
Promise.
It's okay.
The first man on Manaslu and Cho Oyu in winter.
The first man who reached 8,000 meters in winter in Karakoram.
On Broad Peak, actually.
He set a new path on Annapurna.
The first Pole to reach Mount Everest from the Chinese side.
Leader of winter expeditions, and an active high-altitude guide.
He leads his customers to the peaks of Seven Summits every year,
which allows him to stay in legendary form.
Let me introduce you. Artur.
Nice to meet you.
-Tomek. -Hello.
-Adam. -It's an honor.
Maciej.
I could go on for much longer,
since he's a big part of the history of Polish mountaineering,
but all I'm going to say is,
Maciej Berbeka!
This is our entire team.
We have the experience, but…
these young men have the strength and power.
Although we've never climbed together before,
we know that they're great.
They already do amazing things.
Maciej and I were on the first expedition.
We both remember it well, perhaps too well.
We both know that mountain well, and it's…
Before your encounter with the mountain, are you feeling the jitters,
or the need to settle the score?
It's taken me a long time to decide
whether to climb Broad Peak in the winter,
but in the end, Krzysiek Wielicki's argument prevailed.
He told me that we have to finish what we've started.
Camp Two, come in. Over.
Base, come in. It's Tomek.
Do you have any weather forecasts? Over.
It's 35 knots at 7,500.
Tomorrow morning 15, later 5.
It should be completely calm around noon.
That's for tomorrow.
What's 8,000 like on Tuesday? Over!
Five, fifteen, and twenty.
There's also Wednesday.
Fifteen, fifteen, and then one. One knot.
Over.
We should be able to cope with one knot.
Over.
You were there before, right? Very close to the summit, 25 years ago.
I was convinced I was at the top.
Meaning?
In 1988, I reached Rocky Summit, which is the foresummit of Broad Peak.
It's several meters lower. You have to descend a little to go up.
Less than an hour from the real summit.
Noon, 4th March.
The boys are on the way to Camp Three.
The plan for today is to get the supplies and deliver them up to Camp Four.
They must have two tents.
So, what really happened up there? Why didn't you go further?
I would have,
but my colleagues didn't tell me that I was at the foresummit.
So I started descending and only after I came back to the country,
after a couple of months, I learned I hadn't reached the real summit.
So, how's it going?
Come in, over.
We hear you, over!
The wind will stop by 10:15.
It should be okay until noon.
We're very pleased to hear that, because here--
Buddy, hold the antenna up because I didn't understand a thing, over.
Is it hard to go back to Broad Peak?
What do you think?
There is nothing pleasant about slowly dying…
when you feel like it's over.
Your loved ones are thousands of kilometers away
and you can't say goodbye to them.
Every part of your body has had enough and there's nothing you can do about it.
Terrible helplessness.
That's my memory of Broad Peak.
And then, after you return to the country, to your home,
then it turns out that it was all for nothing.
Do you understand?
For nothing.
The forecast shows three times of the day. The morning is looking okay.
That's a great forecast. I hope it turns out to be true. Out.
7,400 MASL, SUMMIT PUSH
We head out at five.
That's fine with us.
Five is a bit late.
Three.
Five.
How are you feeling?
We're feeling good. We can do it.
All right, but you have to tell Krzysiek.
At five? Whose decision was that?
Well, everyone.
I think it's about three hours too late, over.
Are you suggesting that we leave earlier?
Five is okay.
We'll be at the crevasse at dawn.
And it's -40°C.
I don't want to get frostbite again. Over.
Which teams are going up?
All four of us. We're going together.
Why not in twos?
Krzysiek, we have a better chance if all four of us go.
The weather is going to be nice and we're feeling good.
Each one of us has worked hard to reach this summit.
But you've got to move fast. There's a long way to the top.
Don't waste the day. Over and out.
It's taken much longer.
We're up shit creek, Maciej. We have to hurry up.
7,700 MASL 9 A.M.
Getting to the crevasse took a lot of time.
You're two hours behind schedule.
Don't fuck around for too long. And be careful.
The weather will get better during the day.
There'll be a lot of sunlight.
It would be good to use it
because it's the last window of opportunity we have.
There won't be another chance!
Over and out.
7,900 MASL 12 P.M. THE COL
DEATH ZONE
Maciej, since this morning…
Maciej, you're already three hours behind since this morning, over.
We know.
The weather's good.
It's cleared up.
And we feel…
We feel good.
That's great. So you want to keep going?
Yes, we want to keep going.
It's still about four, five hours to get to the summit.
You have to hurry.
I repeat, you have to hurry.
The sun is okay now, but it will get bloody cold after dark.
Descent could be very difficult in such conditions.
Be careful out there. Over and out.
It's hard to live being branded a fraud.
For the last 25 years, I've been trying to get away from that. To regain my honor.
To this day,
I don't know why my colleagues didn't tell me the truth back then.
But it was a long time ago.
Now, I prefer to think about what lies ahead of me.
Exactly what lies ahead of you?
A rematch?
A successful rematch?
Time will tell.
I'm going there to climb a bit and to help the young folks.
And if conditions are good…
I'm going to make an attempt.
Once again.
Hello, Maciej. Hello, Adam, Artur, Tomek. Hello, guys. Come in, over.
8,030 MASL 4 P.M. ROCKY SUMMIT
Hello, Maciej. Hello, guys. Come in, for God's sake!
Over.
Hello, Maciej. Hello, guys. What's with your radios?
My hair is turning gray. Over.
Hi, Krzysiek, it's Maciej.
We've reached Rocky Summit.
You're finally responding!
Rocky Summit, well done!
You are at 8,000, but you still have a bit left to reach the summit.
I think it's definitely too late.
If you go further, you'll have to descend in the dark.
That'd be very difficult.
So consider turning back.
Maciej, think about it. Over.
I didn't come all this way to go back now.
Over and out.
Everyone decides for themselves.
Hello, guys. Come in, over.
Maciej, Artur, Tomek, Adam, over.
Hello, Maciej. Hello, guys. Hello, Adam, Artur, Tomek. Over.
On March 5, 2013,
Polish mountaineers were the first to ascend Broad Peak in winter.
Adam Bielecki reached the summit at 5:20 P.M.
Artur Malek seized the summit half an hour later.
Tomasz Kowalski reached the summit at 6 P.M.
Hello, Krzysiek?
Maciej, I'm listening! Where the hell are you? Over!
On the summit!
On the summit.
Maciej Berbeka ascended Broad Peak
exactly 25 years to the day after his first attempt
when barely 17 meters separated him from the summit.
Maciej, come in to base.
ARCHIVAL MATERIAL
Maciej, Tomek, come in, for God's sake. Where are you? Over.
Maciej, Tomek, where are you, goddammit?
Come in, over.
Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski died on their descent.
Subtitle translation by: Maja Konkolewska