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Beauty exists.
You can come into contact with it every day.
You just need a certain state of mind.
The clothes that I make tell a story
that has emotional impact.
That is what counts the most.
It takes a healthy dose of recklessness to risk your career
every six months.
PARIS, FRANCE FASHION DESIGN STUDIO
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
PARIS, FRANCE 6 MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOW
He recommended it, but...
They're worried it won't look as good.
To be clear, this corset will take 60 hours to make.
We need to figure out how to bring that down.
I was thinking of hook and eye fastenings and lacing.
I'll see if it's an option. I'd prefer a 2cm band
with two boning end caps at the back,
and then you'd have the topstitching.
I think it's easier to have the lacing here
to support the bust, the waist, etc.
Shall we go with that?
It is the same thing, just less complicated.
Because I need to save some time.
I'll go check.
It is important.
Maybe it's the assembly, and it's okay. But maybe the pattern goes like this.
I'll see if I can use some spaghetti boning.
Very thin boning to keep it straight.
And push back off the shoulders.
I need to check and analyze it.
Confirm it with me ASAP, and I'll talk to Pierre.
This is what we call "backstage."
I have the designs and sketches given to me by Casey.
STUDIO MANAGER
I have a team of technical designers and patternmakers
who do the work.
A technical designer creates the 3D volume.
A patternmaker designs the pattern used to cut the pieces.
The pieces are cut out.
And the sample makers assemble the garment.
So, I manage all these people. I oversee every garment.
I go to the fittings. I follow the process of each garment
and handle any emergencies. Casey might call to make a change.
Step by step, we create the garment.
BARCELONA FRAGRANCE PUBLICITY SHOOT
In this house, fragrances and fashion always work together.
They speak with the same voice,
and that is our greatest strength.
That is what makes this fashion house so special.
Our role within the fragrance industry
is to disrupt and be as bold as possible.
Mr. Mugler did precisely that over 30 years ago.
He had conviction. He saw it through,
and he revolutionized the world of fragrance.
ANGEL CAMPAIGN - 1993 JERRY HALL
Creating a revolutionary fragrance with Thierry Mugler
was one of life's milestones.
He wanted his fragrance to be extremely powerful.
One of a kind.
A fragrance that was 100% Mugler.
It's the basis of the formula.
I had him smell a kind of blend, a base.
A stunning patchouli with heavy notes of vanilla.
He loved it, and from then on,
he came to my office several times.
I showed him several tests.
It wasn't working. It was too conventional.
He wanted something bolder.
There were no limits, no barriers.
One day, he told me about his childhood in Strasbourg.
He would drink chocolate milk and he'd dip raisin cookies into it.
I remember that once I'd finished work, I ran to the nearest store
and I bought almost all the cookies
and candies I could carry.
On the backs of the packets of Haribo candies,
I found some ingredients that would be interesting
to try in our creation.
Let's move onto the praline.
It smells like cotton candy.
He said, "It reminds me of fairgrounds in Strasbourg."
And it was a phenomenal lightbulb moment.
We had found a very sweet, addictive note.
And suddenly, the tests had become a real fragrance.
Let me tell you a story.
My wife was wearing it.
I think we were living on the fourth floor.
People knocked on our door, saying,
"We took the elevator, and when we got out at your floor,
there was such an incredible scent that we've never smelled before."
"Ma'am, is it your perfume?"
That happened 30 years ago.
I didn't realize it at the time,
but, with Thierry, we had created
a new scent family,
the gourmand family.
Thierry Mugler shared his excitement.
At the time, at our offices in Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
we started picking up scents.
They handed out little vials.
Everyone wore it, men and women.
He showed us his ring and said, "That's how the bottle will look."
I remember them struggling. They'd come into the office
and say, "This will work.
No, that won't work."
He went crazy over it. He was like a child.
His mood would change over time. He'd say,
"Yes, maybe. No, but..."
He wanted the impossible.
Incredible innovative techniques
were needed for this bottle that wouldn't stand
and cracked as it cooled.
True to his nature,
he was so stubborn about it. He'd always say,
"This is my vision. That blue star ring.
That's what I want."
And he got the impossible.
Everything about it is innovative. It breaks the mold.
It is an icon worn by millions of women.
So, I asked the perfumers to reinvent it
by creating the most sensual version possible.
The challenge is finding a new ingredient
that marries perfectly with Angel,
but also manages to tell a new story at the same time.
What do you think of these three tests?
They're really interesting.
Some have really focused on the lift, the hook,
for immediate impact with a fruitier opening.
I like it.
But it's less innovative.
I'm setting aside the intermediate version
where you heightened the woodiness.
It's almost mundane. It has been seen before.
I really like this one.
It's like shredded coconut, so delicious and very sophisticated.
-Salty. -Exactly.
It's the saltiness of the coconut.
I love it.
It's more refined.
That's the one we need to push for.
IMAGE ARCHITECT / STYLIST TO ZENDAYA
CURATOR OF THE "THIERRY MUGLER: COUTURISSIME" EXHIBITION
The idea of the Robot is that life
and femininity transcend the metal, despite everything.
There's a lot of excitement.
We're there with Zendaya and Law.
She is trying on the Robot.
We know that it is almost impossible to get into.
It was made to fit one woman.
It's closed. We're good.
For several months now, Casey and the team have been working
on a huge project with a big-name brand,
and today is the official launch of this incredible collaboration.
Mr. Mugler has always wanted to make fashion for the people,
accessible to everyone.
And that is how this collaboration came about,
thanks to him.
PARIS, FRANCE 3 MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOW
PARIS, FRANCE FASHION DESIGN STUDIO
This on is already ready, so...
-I don't know where we are. -Prioritize this one.
It just changed. We're not doing this in a US size 6 anymore.
-Where are you with this one? -It is cut.
Does Saturday work?
The male models are coming and I need to be able to fit them.
Okay. That works.
Six different professions were involved in making this dress:
sculptor, molder,
plumassier, embroiderer, etc.
So, it is a fantastic emblem for the brand.
The Chimera, our finest piece.
Presented at the '97-'98 Fall/Winter show.
The work is absolutely incredible.
The model who wore this gown was Adriana Karembeu.
We took a mold of her body to make her corset.
The scales are fully embroidered and painted by hand.
Each scale is completely unique.
The amount of work is just insane.
This is from the '95-'96 show at the Cirque d'Hiver.
Our 20th anniversary.
This sublime corset in gilt metal
is one of the most famous pieces in our collection
and has even been worn by Beyoncé and Céline Dion.
Each strip is a completely separate piece.
They open with these snap fastenings,
and you can actually open it completely.
The arms are articulated to be able to bend properly.
All of the fingers are also articulated.
We call this the Croc Dress, but it isn't crocodile skin.
Mr. Mugler refused to use rare leathers or furs,
which is why he invented new techniques.
He folded the leather and sewed it.
The way it is sewn creates this texture on normal leather,
on standard leather, giving this crocodile skin effect.
It was the first time that this technique was perfected.
FASHION MANAGING DIRECTOR
I love the imagery. If we have two,
I would push for one and two or two and three.
I trust you, but I would put number two in the mix.
Okay, I'll put one and two.
DIRECTOR OF GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS
Right, we're all set.
We have a meeting with the president of L'Oréal Luxe
to present the new concept for Angel:
bottle, fragrance, marketing.
I can't wait for him to see the work we have done on Angel.
It'll be interesting to see how he reacts.
Angel is the essence of the brand in a bottle.
In 2024, the goal is to make this Angel the most high-fashion of the entire range.
In terms of design,
we have five propositions for you that reinvent
the iconic Angel blue
and one slightly bolder option.
An option with a black bottle.
For us, black is the color
that embodies and conveys sensuality.
We know that this color
is frequently used in Casey's work.
It's beautiful.
Having Angel in black is quite unsettling.
It has always been blue, but that's why it is so striking.
Exactly.
Visually,
and I haven't smelled anything yet, so it'll be a surprise,
but visually, it is the most intense of them all.
You're right.
-So, what does it smell like? -Thank you.
The idea is to push its voluptuousness to the max.
You'll see that it is warmer,
more intense, more sensual and more voluptuous.
So, the aim of this exercise
is to find an ingredient that is in harmony with Angel,
but also has enough character to put a twist on it.
So, we have explored different olfactory routes.
We thought cherry was an interesting direction,
but we felt that it was... not as surprising.
It isn't as powerful.
So, our recommendation
gravitates to the coconut angle,
where we have developed a very natural coconut
with woody notes of vanilla and tonka bean...
And interestingly,
it has a more floral dimension.
I'd say that the coconut is more interesting, more disruptive.
It doesn't feel recycled.
I love that you can still recognize Angel.
It has Angel's signature, but still feels different.
In terms of our earlier discussion...
The black...
-The fact that it's meant to be... -The most radical.
The most striking of the range.
That's our focus for Mugler.
We stay divisive. We are a brand that has to appeal to a certain clientele
on the cutting edge, etc.
I stand by that 100%.
It is important to surprise people again
with this fragrance which, when it was launched,
was the most insane thing.
And let's keep surprising
with Hunter and new marketing strategies.
Great.
What's your idea for...
It's the idea of shifting between the real world
and, through the fragrance, arriving in a very sensual world.
It plays with distortion. We want to make it quite simple
and direct with strong visual impact.
Great idea.
This universe won't appeal to everyone, but that is just perfect.
Our goal is to stand up for what we believe in.
It is the DNA of this house.
THIERRY MUGLER'S FRIEND AND MUSE
I like showing all ages as well.
There are former models who no longer do it professionally,
but they are still beautiful women.
I like showing young women, older women,
small, tall, plus-size.
All the archetypes of beauty when they are beautiful.
I was most struck by how he briefed the models.
He directed them like actresses.
He'd say,
"I want you to go out there and cry.
I want to see tears.
You are a Madonna. Your son is on the cross."
He'd say things like that to help them fully embody their role.
They weren't just clothes racks.
These girls were taking on characters
with their own temperaments, and they loved it.
Coming out of the 1970s, in commercials,
women were housewives.
It's quite astounding.
I propose a woman
who is dynamic, modern, combative, and above all else, she's mean.
When I say "mean," this woman has spunk.
It is a reaction to the cream puff woman,
who is romantic, dumb, flowery and extremely passive.
Thierry Mugler rode out the storm,
and I remember
that he was often upset
or angry at being so misunderstood by the media at the time.
He was criticized for turning women into sexual objects,
and he'd say, "Absolutely not. They are sexual subjects.
They are in charge of their own sexuality.
They are not victims of it."
I've had some criticism
because those critics haven't figured out that I'm right,
and in two years, we'll get there. It's obvious.
ACTRESS AND FRAGRANCE AMBASSADOR
When we were thinking about who could be our next angel,
naturally, we thought of Hunter,
with her incredible beauty and charisma.
Through who she is, she embodies the house as it is today.
LONDON, UK DUNE: PART TWO WORLD PREMIERE
The second Zendaya appeared in the Robot,
it was everywhere.
It was all over social media,
all over the Internet. It was impossible to miss it.
FRIEND OF THIERRY MUGLER AND EVENT PRODUCER
Festival vibes have been coursing through us for 50 years.
It's part of the DNA of the house.
PARIS, FRANCE FRAGRANCE LAUNCH
We're finally launching our new fragrance.
It is the crowning moment to be able to celebrate this evening
with our ambassador Hunter Schafer, in the heart of Paris.
Luxury fashion houses are often distant and cold.
That is not the case here.
The show, the spectacle, the entertainment,
that is what makes our house so different.
It was also the case for Mr. Mugler's legendary fashion shows.
There was space for everyone to come
and take part, to party with him
and with everyone involved in the show.
That was Mr. Mugler's strength.
Making this joy and this celebration accessible to everyone.
PARIS, FRANCE DAY BEFORE THE SHOW
It's all too big. Look, this needs to be removed.
I need to remove all of this.
With the boning...
Yes, but it also means that this part
needs to come this way. It's a bit big here.
I want to do this.
It comes away like that, just like the jacket.
-As much as that? -Yes, it comes away like that.
-I lifted it... -You lifted it?
-Lisa, I'll use this for the weight... -She's not here.
Régine?
-You're dropping it? -It isn't...
It is too difficult. Forget it.
It's canceled?
Stop.
I just wanted to get you up to speed on the show's progress
and the line-up.
This has evolved into this two-layer version.
That's a whole other subject. It is a real challenge.
I added a bit too much, so she can feel it moving.
Don't forget her name.
Yes, of course.
What? Helena.
We've never met!
Confirmed.
Ticktock, ticktock.
So, I really need to know. If it's "Go", I have to go.
-Go! -Thank you.
-Supermodel. Go! -Okay.
This jacket...
It isn't for Esther anymore. It's for Helena Christensen.
We need to find 3cm to 4cm between two sizes.
That means they...
Duty calls.
Okay, I'm on my way.
The Cage won't be for Helena.
Second or third fitting?
It isn't assigned yet.
I just cut it.
Cédric, I'm taking the jacket.
PARIS, FRANCE DAY OF THE SHOW
What's missing?
The strips...
We're missing a whole rack.
A whole rack?
-It isn't just the veils? -We're waiting on the final pieces.
The final looks?
A lot of people at the studio were working
until the early hours,
and several pieces were finished at the last minute.
Most of the pieces were sent together.
The truck is stuck in traffic
and they can't find the drop-off point, so three hours before the show,
we have no clothes, no shoes,
and no bags.
It's tense.
Order vans. Forget the second truck.
We need to find a backup immediately.
Can Clément bring as much as possible?
There's no time for the truck to do a second trip.
We're missing Régine's machines.
They need to go in the van.
There's more in the van on the way. There are seven of them.
Impossible.
-Thank fuck. It's here. -It's here.
It'll be fine.
Yes, it will be just fine.
It is important for me to be with the teams at Mugler,
to see the reaction of the audience
who are seeing how modern and disruptive Casey's work is.
Get into position.
PARIS, FRANCE 3 WEEKS LATER
Subtitle translation by: Elaine Scott